Drip edge is metal flashing installed along the edges of your roof that directs water away from the fascia and into the gutter. Without it, rainwater rolls off your shingles and wicks backward underneath them, soaking into the wood and causing rot that often goes unnoticed until significant structural damage has occurred.
This guide covers what drip edge does, the different types and materials available, typical costs, and how to spot problems before they turn into bigger repairs.
What Is Drip Edge on a Roof
Drip edge is metal flashing that runs along the edges of your roof. It directs rainwater away from the fascia board and into the gutter, preventing water from seeping under your shingles or soaking into the wood beneath. Think of it as a small metal lip that gives water a clean path off your roof instead of letting it roll backward and cause damage.
Most drip edge has a simple L-shaped or angled profile. One side tucks under the shingles, and the other side extends slightly past the roof edge. The design is straightforward, but the protection it provides is significant.
Your roof has drip edge in two locations. Eave drip edge runs along the bottom horizontal edge where your gutters hang. Rake drip edge runs along the sloped sides of your roof, which roofers sometimes call the gable ends. Both serve the same purpose, just in different spots.
Why Your Roof Needs Drip Edge
Water has a way of finding its path to vulnerable areas. Without drip edge, rainwater rolls off your shingles and wicks backward underneath them. Over time, that moisture soaks into the fascia and roof decking, leading to rot, mold, and structural problems that cost far more to fix than drip edge ever would.
Here's what drip edge actually protects:
Fascia and soffit: Water can't travel backward under the roof edge and soak into the trim boards
Roof decking: The plywood or OSB beneath your shingles stays dry instead of slowly rotting
Shingle edges: The starter row of shingles has a firm surface to grip, which helps them stay put in wind
Entry points: Gaps where insects, birds, and small animals could get in are sealed off
Most building codes now require drip edge on asphalt shingle roofs. Even in areas wh...
Drip Edge Materials for Shingle and Metal Roofing
Drip edge comes in three common materials: aluminum, galvanized steel, and copper. Each has tradeoffs in durability, cost, and appearance.
Material | Best For | Durability | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
Aluminum | Most shingle roofs | Rust-resistant, lightweight | Affordable |
Galvanized Steel | High-wind areas, budget projects | Strong but can rust over time | Budget-friendly |
Copper | Historic homes, premium builds | Longest-lasting, develops patina | Higher investment |
Aluminum drip edge
Aluminum is the most common choice for residential shingle roofs. It won't rust, weighs very little, and comes in many colors to match your trim. For most homes with asphalt shingles, aluminum drip edge is the practical option. It does the job well without adding unnecessary cost.
Galvanized steel drip edge
Galvanized steel is more rigid than aluminum. That extra stiffness makes it a better fit in high-wind areas where flexibility could be a problem. The tradeoff is that if the protective zinc coating gets scratched, rust can develop over time. Steel drip edge shows up more often on metal roofing installations where rigidity matters.
Copper drip edge
Copper outlasts both aluminum and steel by a wide margin. It develops a green patina as it ages, which gives it a distinctive look that works well on historic or high-end homes. The price is significantly higher, so copper drip edge works best for projects where appearance and longevity are top priorities.
Drip Edge Profile Types
When roofers mention drip edge "profiles," they're talking about the shape of the metal when you look at it from the end. Different profiles serve different purposes, though most residential roofs use Type C or Type D.
Type C drip edge
Type C is the simplest design. It's L-shaped with a basic 90-degree bend. This profile offers straightforward protection and works fine on roofs without gutters or on projects with tighter budgets. You might also hear it called "L-style" drip edge.
Type D drip edge
Type D has an extra flange that extends out over the gutter. This is the most common profile for residential shingle roofs with gutters because it directs water cleanly into the gutter channel instead of letting it drip behind. Roofers sometimes call it "D-metal" or "T-style."
Type F drip edge
Type F has an extended vertical flange, which makes it useful for covering wider fascia boards. Roofers often choose it for re-roofing projects where the existing fascia needs extra coverage. You might hear it called "gutter apron."
Type T drip edge
Type T is similar to Type D with slight variations depending on the manufacturer. Naming conventions vary by region and supplier, which is why you'll sometimes hear different terms for similar profiles. What matters most is understanding the actual shape and how it works with your specific roof and gutter configuration.
How Roof Drip Edge Is Installed
Installation order matters with drip edge. The sequence differs between the eaves and the rakes, and incorrect sequencing can trap water instead of directing it away.
1. Install drip edge at the eaves
At the eaves, which is the horizontal bottom edge of your roof, drip edge goes directly on the roof deck before the underlayment. This layering allows water to flow over the drip edge and into the gutter without getting trapped underneath.
2. Apply underlayment over eave drip edge
The underlayment, whether felt paper or synthetic, lays on top of the eave drip edge. This creates the correct water flow direction. Moisture always moves outward and down, never backward under the roofing materials.
3. Install drip edge along the rake
At the rake edges, which are the sloped sides of your roof, the order reverses. Here, drip edge goes over the underlayment. This prevents wind-driven rain from getting underneath during storms. The overlap keeps water out even when rain is blowing sideways.
4. Secure drip edge with roofing nails
Nails are spaced consistently and placed where shingles will cover them. Sections overlap by several inches, and in high-wind areas, contractors often seal the joints with roofing cement for extra protection. Proper nailing keeps the drip edge from lifting or shifting over time.
Can Drip Edge Be Installed After Shingles
While it's possible to install drip edge after shingles are in place, the process is more challenging and typically less effective than proper sequencing.
If you discover your roof is missing drip edge, the best time to add it is during your next roof replacement. At that point, everything gets installed in the correct order, and the drip edge can do its job properly.
How Much Does Drip Edge Cost
Drip edge is one of the more affordable parts of a roofing project. The total cost depends on three factors:
Material: Aluminum is the most affordable, copper the most expensive
Linear footage: Larger or more complex roofs have longer perimeters and require more drip edge
Labor: Usually minimal when installed during a full roof replacement
On a complete roof replacement, drip edge is almost always included in the quote. Expect to see $200-600 for drip edge on a typical 1,500 square foot home, depending on the material and roof complexity.
Signs Your Roof Edge Flashing Needs Replacement
Like other roofing components, drip edge will eventually show signs of wear and may need replacement.
Rust or corrosion on the metal
Visible rust spots, especially on galvanized steel drip edge, mean the protective coating has failed. Once rust starts, it spreads. Aluminum drip edge won't rust, but it can corrode in certain conditions.
Visible gaps between drip edge and fascia
Drip edge is designed to sit snug against the fascia. Gaps allow water to get behind the drip edge and soak into the wood. Pests can also use gaps as entry points into your attic or soffit.
Water stains on fascia or soffit
Brown stains or discoloration below the roofline often indicate water is bypassing the drip edge. The staining shows where moisture has been soaking into the wood repeatedly.
Peeling paint near the roofline
Paint bubbling or peeling on fascia boards suggests moisture is getting trapped behind the surface. This often traces back to drip edge that isn't directing water properly.
Bent or missing drip edge sections
Storm damage, ladder damage, or simple age can bend or dislodge sections of drip edge. Missing sections leave the roof edge completely unprotected, which accelerates damage to everything underneath.
How to Compare Drip Edge on Your Roofing Quotes
When reviewing roofing estimates, drip edge should appear as its own line item. Here's what to look for:
Material specified: Confirm whether it's aluminum, galvanized steel, or copper
Linear feet: The number should roughly match your roof's perimeter
Old drip edge removal: Important for proper installation on re-roofs
Price consistency: Similar materials should cost roughly the same across quotes
If one quote is significantly cheaper than the others, check whether drip edge is included at all. Some contractors bundle it into "materials" without specifying, which makes comparison harder. A clear line item tells you exactly what you're getting.
